There are basically 3 types of brocades
- Zari brocade/Kimkwab
The patterning is in zari or gold/silver thread. It covers less than 50% of the base. Its used for wedding purposes.
- Amru brocade
Unlike the kimkwab the weft patterning is in silk and not in zari. It is densly patterned and has a satin weave. Also it covers more than 50% of the base area.
It can be either of the above brocades and the amount of zari visible can also vary. The material ground can be of different feel. It has 3 sub-categories.
- Cut-work brocade
The supplementary weft are woven in heavier or thicker fibres than the ground. The motifs are not separately woven instead the floats at the back are cut.image006-1.jpgTarbana
The weft threads of the of the ground are zari not silk which creates a metallic sheen. It is extremely rich textile as several weights and shades are used for creating patterns.
The name is inspired by the holly waters in India- ganga and Yamuna. Only gold thread is used on silver background and no other silk thread is used.
As we all know banarasi weaving is very intricate and detailed so it will be interesting to know how the patterns are produced, how gold is added and finally how it is finished and supplied. So go ahead and read my next blog.
[http://textilescommittee.nic.in/writereaddata/files/banaras.pdf, 2007, pg-12-19]